THE CULTURAL OMNIVORE

Nathan Bogle – Entrepreneurial Spirit

As one of the founding partners of Rag & Bone, Nathan Bogle turns his attention to his new label Jardine.  Named after his great-grandfather, Jardine was founded on the principles of exceptional quality and blends style and substance in a harmonious marriage. I spoke with Nathan about his transition from modeling to designing and his hopes for the future.

Your discovery story was more unusual than most. Tell us about the genesis of your modeling career.

I was living on an island in Thailand. I had cut all my hair off when this Parisian cab driver said I should try modeling. She knew a lot of people in the fashion world and thought I could make some dough. I was in full traveler mode so the idea of it didn’t appeal to me at the time. When I returned to the cold bleak reality of England and my previous job as a line chef, getting paid for standing in front of the camera all of a sudden seemed very attractive. After I got paid for one days work of modeling, it was a simple mathematical decision. I then had the opportunity to move to New York in 1998 which I jumped at and rest is history.

As a successful model, what prompted you to branch out and start Rag & Bone?

It was a simple case of not finding clothes I wanted to wear and if I did they were overpriced. I came up with the idea of designing the uniform that I and lots of people were wearing of jeans and T-shirts. Marcus and I spent two years learning the trade, teaching ourselves all areas of the business and then launched it in 2004. Having all the contacts in the fashion world really helped but I knew I had to deliver them a product that was excellent and stood for something before I could ask for favors and support.

How did your background in studying permaculture influence and impact you?

I love permaculture! I think it’s the way of the future, though not that commonly known about. I started getting into it in 1994 then studied it in Australia, the birthplace of this form of sustainable living system design. It impacted me on so many levels, but living in New York City those levels are sometimes dampened. I intend to implement all that I learned and more once I get this new brand off the ground. The bigger picture will involve permaculture but it has not impacted my fashion or design in any way apart from compounding the guilt I have for all the transportation and pollution that the textile and fashion industry contributes to.

How did your experience with Rag & Bone influence your new venture Jardine?

I knew what to expect in terms of what it takes to start and build a brand. It is even harder now, because there is so much competition and less capital to splurge on new brands. I learned what it takes to actually manufacture something from sketch to store, and the amount of energy and focus that requires. Ultimately, it all boils down to taste and if ones taste is on point and has the balance of art and commerce right, there’s a chance you might make it. Product is always number one; my philosophy is there is enough average out there, there’s only room for excellence.

What were the core principles you built Jardine on?

Exceptional product quality, no-nonsense brand communication and timeless classic styling so the clothes can be worn for years.

Why was it important for you to produce most of the product in the United States?

Predominantly it is to do with our scale and manageability. It’s obviously a lot easier for me to jump on a train than a plane and be very hands on. At the beginning this is vital. I also think the quality in New York is close, if not the same, as Italy. There are some very skilled sewers in the garment district who simply need direction in order to hone the level of finishing we require.

What were some of the challenges you faced when launching your brand?

Finding the right people to manufacture, sell and promote it. There are lots of people doing all of these things, but there are very few people doing it really well. It’s the same with everything. Getting a brand to market and connecting with the right retailers takes time and money. Building a brand takes time and money so these two elements are always challenging.

We live in an age where most of our life is spent online. How has social media impacted how you do business?

When I started Rag & Bone there was no social media, which is odd to say, having only been 10 years ago. Much like the brand itself, I think social media takes time to build, unless you have the budget and time to be on it all daily, which I don’t. It’s impacted me by adding more work to the table, however it’s a very powerful tool to deliver a very focused brand message. I don’t have a lot of time to spend on the social side but I try to stay active as much as possible.

What inspires and influences you?

Art, music, street life in NYC, film, architecture and food.

How would you like to see Jardine evolve?

I’d like to build my customer base in the US and then begin to branch out internationally. I think for Fall ’14 this will happen. Women are already wearing the mens clothes so there will be a natural evolution into womenswear. Thereafter, who knows; shoes, bags, fragrance, brick and mortar stores, world domination, just give me 10 years.

For more information check out Jardine

Posted on by theculturalomnivore in Male Models

Claudia Mason Reflects on Modeling, Life and the Future

Claudia was a dance student when she was discovered at a music store by a scout and went on to become one of the world’s top models, working with designers that included YSL, Karl Lagerfeld, Versace, Armani, Gucci, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, and Calvin Klein. She was also featured on the covers of such magazines as Vogue, W, Mademoiselle, Elle, Cosmopolitan, and numerous foreign publications. I spoke with Claudia about modeling, her transition into acting and so much more.

Start by telling us how you were discovered and the genesis of your career.

I was born and raised in Manhattan on the Upper West side. I was a dance student at The School of American Ballet. When I was 13, I was with a friend from junior high school at Tower Records when a modeling scout came up to me; that’s how it started.

What were your thoughts when you were first approached?

I was a 13-year-old dance student at a private school on the Upper West Side. Modeling was the furthest thing from my mind.

Modeling has become such an aspirational career. Guys and girls are a lot more clued in. What are your thoughts?

I think people are still discovered at 13, but it was rare then. The girls today are not working full-time at that age, at least I hope not, because they’re still in school.

What changes have you noticed from when you started? 

I think change is always good. We all change so why shouldn’t an industry? I think the entertainment field changes much faster than other fields. Especially with fashion, the turnover rate is very fast. I think social media has changed everything and that’s good. There are more publications on-line now. The business is growing so there are more opportunities for work.

There was some backlash about the location of New York Fashion Week because it became so commercialized. Bloggers have popped up over the past decade and have a prominent position at fashion week. That upset some people who have been in the industry a long time and consider themselves experts and I understand. Then again, these bloggers and social media are bringing fashion into the world more rapidly than before so there’s more money. We tend to, as a people, complain about change and getting more commercialized, but then again it’s better business. It’s a Catch-22.

What effect has social media had in your experience? Has it been relevant?

I love Instagram. I don’t love Twitter. Instagram is instant; which is where the insta comes from. You don’t have to use words. You can just take a picture, upload it and you are done. It makes so much more sense because we are all so busy running around. It’s no wonder that stress related illnesses are on the rise for people under 40.

You sound like you have a lot going on. 

It’s kind of kooky how we’re all going, going, going and then responding to our computer and smart phone throughout the night. I like it but it’s affected my life. I am more busy now with projects. I want to be more on social media now.  I want my voice to be out there more. I think it’s fun to explore these different social media platforms. I was against them for a long time but now I feel more positive. We all communicate better now and it’s changed everything.

Do you find constant communication to be a distraction?

It does feel that we are distancing and drifting apart and not connecting with each other face to face as a people. We’re always on our smart phones and gadgets, but you have to go with it because you can’t live in a cave and rebel against it.

Were you against it?

At first yes. You know, I enjoy it. I’m finally learning that I don’t have to use it to say how my boyfriend is doing for example. I can do it my own way. I can use social media for me. I’ve learned to make it my own.

You’ve had a full career and one of longevity in an industry dependent on change.  How have you been able to do that?

It’s a great question. Besides luck, it’s the time that I came in. The industry wasn’t as massive. Elite and Ford were the only two relevant agencies. There was nothing else. In some ways it was a smaller industry. I was blessed that I started at the top of the industry in a wonderful time in history.

Do you think the longevity you had will sustain today? 

It was really the time in fashion. I don’t know how else to think about it.  My peers from the 90’s are all working.  Helena Christensen and Christy Turlington are still working. I pulled out to focus on an acting career and didn’t fully keep up my commercial profile. I’m blessed to be able to come back into it because it was the time but look at Giselle and Kate Moss; they’ve had long careers. A lot of us in my time were having long careers but now you just can’t tell. Take Cara Delevingne and Karlie Kloss for example. We all love them but how long does a career at that top-level last these days?

Can you touch on your transition into acting?

I grew up in an artistic environment. My dad is a playwright, director and author. My mom wrote and acted. I always wanted to act and dance. Modeling came and it was a great opportunity. I don’t want to put down my profession, because it takes a lot to be a model, however, I found it limiting. I needed to express myself outside of walking a runway.   I needed more. I think of the quote by Joseph Campbell “Follow your bliss and the universe will open doors for you where there were only walls.”  That’s what led me into acting. I’ve had a great time making films and being on TV and producing and acting in theater. Moving to Los Angeles was very unsatisfying so I went back into modeling. I’m redefining myself. I’m writing a book and doing a variety of different things as well as acting.

What did you find disenchanting about LA?

I have such great friends there and I love to go to LA in the winter. It’s a tough city when you love walking everywhere and LA is a sprawling suburb. New York is alive and the hustle and bustle just isn’t there in LA. That’s the difference. LA is not an international city.

You have a somewhat ambiguous ethnic look. With a limited beauty ideal in the industry, did you ever come up against anything?

Not to my face. I just sailed through because I started at the top. If that happened I was not privy to it. It’s unfortunate when someone’s background affects them getting a job or not. I think that change is already happening. Campaigns and beauty contracts are going to all sorts or beauties. I mean, Christy is mixed. Helena is mixed. I just saw Helena last night and I’m going to be working with Christy coming up. It’s fun to have a look that nobody knows what it is. But I don’t think we’ll ever get there as a people.

Any advice for yourself at age 13? 

Have fun! I had many experiences traveling. It’s a fun job. Sure it’s hard work and there are downsides, but it’s fun. I took it too seriously. Enjoy the journey, enjoy the moment. It moves by so fast.

Follow Claudia’s blog here

Posted on by theculturalomnivore in Female Models

Introducing Morris Pendlebury

Morris Pendlebury was scouted during a shopping excursion in Leeds and signed with Premier Model Management. The Yorkshire-born model is racking up a slew of edgy editorials in magazines such as L’Officiel Singapore and Bon in addition to advertising campaigns for Barneys New York. I caught up with Morris to find out about what he hopes to get out of his career and the highlights so far.

You were discovered in Primark in Leeds. What went through your mind when you were approached by the scout from Premier?

I wasn’t really sure what to make of it at first. It’s not really an industry I thought I would be going into. I honestly thought it might be a joke.

Coming from a small town in North Yorkshire what were your initial impressions when you began modeling?

I thought the whole thing was kinda strange at first. But really, who else at 17 has such great opportunities for work and travel?

What are your aspirations and goals for the future?

To have a successful life.

What do you hope to get out of your modeling career?

To work with some of the industries best. It’s amazing to see the way that people work and just to be involved in the creative process. I would like to travel more and live in New York for a while.

How do you handle the pressure and rejection that comes with modeling?

Every job comes with a certain degree of pressure and rejection so modeling is not actually so different in that respect. You might not always be the look that a client wants. You can’t get every casting you go to and after time you just learn to thrive under pressure.

If you weren’t modeling what would you be doing?

I would probably be at university racking up student debt and spending money that I don’t have.

What has been the highlight of your career thus far?

Working with some amazing photographers like Paolo Roversi and Tim Walker and designers like Hedi Slimane. Having the opportunity to travel the world is something I wanted to do since I was young too.

What have you discovered about yourself through modeling?

I have gained a greater sense of appreciation for where I’m from. I didn’t really see the positives until I left and came back. I’ve also learned I can cook but I’m still learning to clean up.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

I have A-Levels in math and science and I would love to study chemical engineering at university.

Morris is represented by Fusion Models

Posted on by theculturalomnivore in Male Models

Justin Gelband – Model Fit

Justin Gelband, dubbed the model whisperer, is responsible for the covetable bodies of top models Miranda Kerr, Candice Swanpoel, Erin Heatherton, Behati Prinsloo, Anne Vyalitsyna and Maryna Linchuk, to name only a few. I caught up with Justin to talk about fitness and his new project Model-Fit.

What motivated you to get into personal training?

I was an athletic kid. I played tennis, soccer, swam and ran cross-country. I went to Rutgers university and studied Exercise Science and Sport Management then I worked for the Metro Stars and interned for the Director of Marketing and Sales.

I moved to Los Angeles and worked at a 24 Hour Fitness. An advisor asked me if I wanted to start personal training.  It wasn’t what I wanted to do in the beginning but after watching other trainers I was inspired to help women use their bodies properly and get in shape. That was around 1999 and I grew from there.

What is your philosophy on fitness and wellness?

They are the same for me. It is about the individual. Everybody is different. I look at their life-style, health conditions, injuries, genetics and goals. From that I create a workout based on that individual. Model-Fit is about being the best you can be with the body you’ve been given. I created a class where I would be able to see how people move and create a system out of it.

Typically, when people attend classes they’re all doing the same exercises. How many people do you know that can do all the same stuff? You can’t really. If you break it into a more functional workout with specific exercises for their body it makes it more individualized even though it’s in the class atmosphere.

What are some of the biggest misconceptions you come up against when you start to train people?

Mainly that everybody is trained the same way and there’s no difference between people. Women and men are different and women cannot do the same exercises as men. Not because they’re not strong enough, but because they’re not meant to.  Women are not meant to do pull ups and push ups. They’re not built for squats and running mans and leaps.  You train them based on the individual. They’re trying to look their best and they’re doing all these lunges and squats and kettle bells. It is just bulking them up and then they wonder why they’re not losing any weight.  That’s number one.

Number two is nutrition. Nutrition is everything. Ninety percent of what you do is what you eat. Every day we look at our obesity rate in America and it’s growing. Last year the obesity rate was 38 percent and this year it’s at 41 percent; that’s crazy. Almost 50 percent of our population is obese and it’s because of our diet. I started working with Dr. D’Adamo about seven years ago. He’s the guy who created Eat Right For Your Type. I found that if you give yourself a chance to eat things once or twice a week that you enjoy, your body will stay lean and in the best shape it can.

Why the blood type diet? There are four different blood types.  What other nutritional plan can you give somebody that breaks it down to four types of people? When I started researching the blood type diet and trying it on clients it worked most efficiently. 

Most people suffer from pain, guilt and fear. They live in pain so they feel they shouldn’t exercise. They live with guilt because they eat something or they’re not feeling the way they think they should. Then there is fear. Everyone is fearful that if they don’t do something they won’t get to the next level. That’s not the right way to think. You have to think positive thoughts.

When you encounter someone who is struggling with these issues, how do you motivate them?

It’s all in the head. I mean, you can do it through exercise but you have to teach them to believe in themselves and give them motivation and discipline. They must feel that no matter where they’re in their life they can gain results out of what they’re doing.

A lot of people take time off and then they won’t go back to exercise.  Once you try exercising for two weeks, most of the time you’re hooked. It’s about getting the person to move whether it’s walking, swimming, riding or hiking. For me, I would just start with food and cardio. Cardio is movement and the motion of the body. If you get someone to do cardio and you get them moving it doesn’t matter if it’s only 15 minutes per day. At least you’re getting them to do something. I created Model-Fit to show you don’t have to have a gym. You can do it in your living room.

What would you recommend for a woman who is afraid of the gym but doesn’t have the means to have someone like you come to her home?

You can grab tennis balls. You can get bands for five or 10 bucks at the store. Do you all hear what I’m saying? You can just use your own body weight. It’s about changing the movements and modes of exercise. Not only am I creating this gym, I’m creating an interactive site so I will be able to help women and people at home gain that trust, not only in me, but in themselves. Like you said, it’s really hard for people who don’t have the money and don’t have the experience of being able to go and get a trainer and do that. I always I recommend getting out and doing cardio.

I’m creating short videos for people to do at home so they don’t feel alienated thinking that I only work with supermodels and famous people. I work with a lot of different people and that’s why Model-Fit opens March 1. I want to give back to the people. I do have an incredible job and I have been able to train the biggest models and celebrities in the world but it was something that I fell into. I got into training models and celebrities because of the health issues. I wanted to teach the girls how to eat right and how to exercise.

Learn more here

Posted on by theculturalomnivore in Beauty

Introducing Leebo Freeman

Leebo Freeman launched onto the modeling scene by opening Mugler’s AW11 menswear show. He has since walked for Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, Dsquared2 and Frankie Morello and shot editorials including Vogue Homme Japan, W Korea, L’Officiel Hommes Germany, Wonderland and Hercules. When he’s not treading the runways, Leebo enjoys working on his music and building his acting career. I caught up with Leebo to find out what he’s doing these days.

How were you discovered?

A mutual friend on Facebook introduced me to my lovely mother agent Kevin Holloman.

If you weren’t modeling what would you be doing?

I’d be pushing my music as much as I could and I’d probably still be in a band getting the most out of life.

How do you handle the isolation that comes with modeling?

It’s tough at times. I love people and having close contact with friends and family. Other than that, I have a good system and I don’t mind being one my own, sitting back and watching the world buzz.

How do you define success?

Happiness for a start. If you are happy then that’s all that matters in your career. As long as you are pausing yourself and not letting your time pass by without taking advantage of opportunities and taking steps forward then you’re always a success.

How do you handle the scrutiny and rejection that comes with modeling?

Well to be fair, I don’t really care what people think about me or what I’m doing. I’m going to do everything to the fullest and if that doesn’t fit what someone wants then on to the next and keep pushing forward. I think people get caught up trying to please everyone and by’eck that’s impossible!

What do you do to decompress from the pace of modeling and refocus?

Well, I recently got a wee dog, Vash, and love muckin’ about with him; animals are such a great energy. Of course working on my music always takes me away no matter where I am.

What have you discovered about yourself through modeling?

That if I truly want something I will have it. As well, I’m getting good at being alone.

What are your goals and aspirations for the future?

As much as I can do with music. Acting is another true passion so I’m sorting stuff out with that this year. I want to make a comfy home as well, a nice base to come back to.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

Despite my general positive outlook on things, I have had very dark moments where I thought I’d give up on everything. It is always my intention to redirect my thoughts into positive ones, but sometimes I can feel quite trapped and haunted by dark thoughts. I’m all about real experiences and true feelings in life. I want to know at the end of my days that I have lived life to the fullest. I’m okay with these moments though they are not the easiest.

What do you think is the biggest misconception about modeling?

Definitely that it’s easy and that models live some glamorous life where everything is done for them. It’s a lot harder than the TV makes it out to be in more ways than just the work aspect.

On another note, I don’t feel bigger than anyone or on some untouchable level or any of that wank stuff. So anyone should feel free to reach out. Ask me something, tell me something, or if you see me boppin’ about don’t be afraid to say hello or have a hug. Let’s be happy and make this life count. Much love and positive vibes!

Follow him at @LeeboFreeman, Instagram and Soundcloud

Leebo is represented by Adam Models

Posted on by theculturalomnivore in Male Models