Amy Wesson On Modeling and Living Life Without Regrets

Model Amy Wesson was a ubiquitous presence in the modeling industry in the nineties. She was the face of Calvin Klein, Missoni, Versace, Valentino, and walked the international runways for every major brand. The Smashing Pumpkins selected her for the cover of their 1998 album Adore, but at the height of her commercial success things were falling apart in her personal life. I spoke with Amy by phone about those days and talked about where she is in her life now.

I thought we could start with how you were discovered.

I was discovered by Linda and Peter Bennett of New York Model Contracts, I think that’s what the company was called at the time, and I was living in Tupelo, Mississippi. I was discovered at one of their modeling conventions and ended up going to Atlanta, Georgia for one of their conventions. You had to get two or more callbacks and you got a trip to New York. I ended up getting like nine callbacks.  Not all of them were in New York, one was in Dallas and one was in Tokyo. I ended up going to New York with Linda, and met with different agencies before signing with Company Management.

Michael Flutie was at Company at the time, right?

Yes.

Once you signed with them did things happen fast for you?

Things happened very fast. I was a teenager at the time and I didn’t think I could be a model. I didn’t have any idea how it was going to go. One of the first photographers that I worked with was Ellen Von Unwerth and Mario Testino. When I was with Company I worked with them a lot.  They were kind of the ones who started my career, and then I worked with Steven Meisel— Things happened really quickly for me.

Illustration: Justin Teodoro

Do you remember your first job with Steven?

You know—there were so many shoots—I don’t really remember the first time I shot with Steven. I do remember the covers that I did with him for Italian Vogue.  There was one in particular with fake snow that always sticks out because it was so pretty. There were two or three covers that I did with Steven for Italian Vogue, you know, a lot of those really stick out in my head because those stories were beautiful.

Was that the point that things pivoted for you?

Yes, definitely. Mario Testino really started it off for me and then working with Steven was the turning point. I worked with the best. Richard Avedon was an amazing person to work with, I did Versace with him. I worked with Helmut Newton for an editorial job. I worked with Patrick Demarchelier and Steven Klein so many times.  Some of the prettiest pictures I got were with Steven Klein.  I was very lucky and fortunate to have the career that I had.

Were you aware at the time of just how big a career you had?

Yeah, I think so. I don’t know if I realized the cult following that I had. There are a ton of people out there that still post my pictures. I look back and wish I would have enjoyed the moment a little bit more and not taken it for granted so much.  When you are young you don’t really take a step back and think, this is going to be over some day enjoy it while it lasts. I think I might have taken it a little bit for granted some times.

Things weren’t always so great for you. Are you okay talking about that?

Yeah, things were not always so great for me. I made a lot of poor choices with my addictions and now I’m sober. I have been sober from drugs for so long that I stopped counting. About 17 months ago I quit drinking alcohol as well.  You know, it wasn’t something that I had an issue with but it was still an addiction.  I had already quit drugs but I really wanted to get rid of alcohol too.

Did you feel that you had a support system during that time? One of the things that comes up a lot when I talk to models is how isolated they feel.

I was too young. I had my mom and I had my sisters but they all lived far away. I talked to them on the phone but that’s it. I didn’t have a great support system in New York.  I had a boyfriend and I had some girlfriends but nobody that was I was very close to.  Jodie Kidd, Bridget Hall and Astrid Munoz and I are still close. They have their own lives but I still consider them very close friends. Bridget lived right down the road from me in Brooklyn and she was a great support system. We spent a lot of time together, me and her.  You have your agency but they also have 100 other girls to deal with. When things started to spiral out of control I was way too young to realize. When you do realize it you either don’t care because of your addiction or you don’t really know how to stop it.

What would you have done differently, if anything?

I don’t think I would have done anything different.  I’m in a great place now. I have a beautiful two-year-old daughter, a really amazing 12-year-old son and a wonderful husband and an amazing support system. I wish I could have slowed down and enjoyed the moment a little bit more. I don’t really ever look back on anything and say I wish I would have changed that because then I might not be where I am at today.

Illustration: Justin Teodoro

Living life with regret is not useful, you know?

I had a wonderful career and I really am very thankful for what I had and the people that I got to know and the places that I got to go. That’s not something that happens every day so I’m very very fortunate.

Talk to me about the adjustment when you left modeling. How did that transition go?

I cut my hair off and was still using. Not as bad as I was during the height of my career, but I was still battling addiction. I cut my hair really short and my hair was a big money maker for me. I didn’t know that at the time. Then the work really slowed down. My niece got cancer and there were a lot of things going on. I missed being around my family a lot and I ended up going to Dallas for the summer. I ended up staying and not going back to New York.  It’s really that simple.

How would you feel, when your daughter is older, if she approached you and said that she was interested in modeling?

Oh my gosh, no! I would have to be one of those moms who traveled everywhere with her just like Amy Lemons mom did. Do you remember Amy?

Yeah.

Her mom used to travel with her everywhere and she turned out pretty good. It can be a very dangerous thing but it’s a once in a life time experience. If she ever wanted to do it I would be okay with it but there would be some ground rules.

What did you discover about yourself through that whole process?

My head was up in the clouds a lot. Now I attend to the garden and during the summer I quilt. I went back to school and it allowed me to slow down and really do some of the things that I couldn’t have done before. I look back on it and it was just a great learning experience and it’s really what’s brought me to where I am today. If I hadn’t gone through all of these things I wouldn’t have my daughter, I would never have met my husband. My life would have taken a different road.  I look back on it and I have a lot of fun memories, great experiences, and I just wish I would have enjoyed it a little bit more.

Model Charli Howard on Diversity & Creating The All Woman Project

In the autumn of 2015, model Charli Howard penned an open letter to her then agency lambasting them for body-shaming her. The letter went viral and started a conversation about diversity and inclusion that continues to be part of the zeitgeist. As an advocate for women and body acceptance, Charli co-founded the All Woman Project to empower women and present an alternative to the limited beauty ideal perpetuated by the fashion industry.

Were you surprised by the support you received when you spoke out against some of the unhealthy practices of the fashion industry?

Yes, completely. I’d felt so alone for such a long time that I suddenly felt people understood where I was coming from.

What role do you think social media has in changing the conversation?

I think social media is allowing women to have a voice for the first time. We’re going back to the old practices of brands listening to the consumer, rather than the other way round. I think social media has had a big influence on diversity within fashion. Natural things like cellulite don’t seem as shocking anymore.

What changes would you like to see implemented in the fashion industry?

I just want to see more diversity. As seasons continue, I think we are seeing that, but we still have a long way to go!

Tell us about the genesis of the All Woman Project.

The All Woman Project was created by me and my friend, Clementine Desseaux. We questioned why we rarely saw plus and straight size girls together in the same campaigns, so wanted to create beautiful imagery where size wasn’t a factor. The images are 100 percent non-retouched, which is incredibly important to us, and made up of an entirely female team. We truly believe women are beautiful and feel all girls should feel represented.

Why was it important to you to get involved with this project?

I wanted to create something that my old, fifteen-year-old self would’ve aspired to. I want to prove to girls that you are beautiful, regardless of your skin or body shape. I felt so insecure growing up so I hope we’ve made girls feel less insecure in some way, even if it’s very minor.

How would you like to see this movement evolve?

We want to continue this until we feel people aren’t shocked by seeing diversity. When diversity isn’t shocking anymore, that’s when we know we’ve done our job.

What message do you want people to get out of this movement?

That you are fine just the way you are. Yes, you may have stretch marks, and yes, you may have cellulite, but so do the majority of women. Just because you’re a model, doesn’t mean you’re exempt from that.

What can people do to get involved or show their support?

You can submit a video to our Instagram video series, upload a photo and tag us or write to us at hello@allwomanproject.com. We respond to every message!

2016: The Year in Review

As another year comes to a close I want to thank everyone for their continued support. When I started this site five years ago, I couldn’t have anticipated the reach it would have. I’m grateful to everyone that has contributed, shared and encouraged me along this path.

Without further ado I thought I’d share some of the highlights of the past year. I spoke to industry icons Angela Lindvall, Audrey Marnay, Jayne Windsor and Jason Fedele as they reflected on their stellar careers. Established  models Cate Underwood and Chiharu Okunugi shared their stories. The new generation of models including Megan Puleri, August Gonet, Tina VeshaguriVanessa Lee  and the new faces of New York Model Management  made their mark in the fashion industry.  I profiled casting director Tiffany Rosenfeld and spoke to the prolific and undisputed maven of set design Mary Howard.

I’m looking forward to bringing you more interviews and diversifying in the coming year. Thanks again for making this possible. Stay connected!

“I Was Told I Wasn’t Photogenic”: How Model Jayne Windsor Had The Last Laugh

In the late nineties, northern lass Jayne Windsor could be seen on billboards everywhere as the face of power-house brands Calvin Klein, Fendi, Armani and Gap in addition to the pages of fashion bibles around the world. After being told she wasn’t photogenic enough to model, Jayne proved her detractors wrong and went on to have a successful career. I caught up with her to reflect on those times and find out what she is up to these days.

We often hear stories about models being discovered but your story is different. Tell us about how you got into modeling.

I was encouraged by friends to become a model, so eventually I plucked up the courage to approach some agencies. I first went to a local agency in Newcastle then to an agency in Leeds. When I walked through the doors of Models 1 in London they turned me away saying I would never be photogenic enough so I kind of lost hope a bit. The agency I was with in Leeds suggested I give Japan a try but as it turned out I wasn’t skinny enough for the Japanese market so I was encouraged to give Select Model Management a try. I did and they absolutely loved me and within a few months I was living and working in London.

Do you think you appreciated your career more because you had to work for it as opposed to having it handed to you?

I don’t think I appreciated my career enough back then and some days I would hate it as it was so daunting and sometimes disappointing.

What were some of the misconceptions you had about modeling?

I hadn’t predicted how hard it would be have a super demanding career along with children.

How did you stay grounded?

I was kept grounded because of my children and having to get back to them after a busy day. No after parties for me.

What are some of your memorable moments from the height of your career?

I look back at my career in the early days and think wow that was amazing and how lucky I was to have worked with such amazing people and getting to travel the world too. I have too many memorable moments to list but I worked with photographers David Sims, Mario Testino, Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber, Craig McDean, Regan Cameron and Peter Lindbergh and shot for magazines all over the world including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire. I was also the face of big name brands like Calvin Klein, Fendi and Armani.

You returned to the industry after a break. How would you contrast the changes in the industry to when you began?

After a break I returned to modelling and in some ways things had become harder. For example, in the earlier days, Select would send me on endless go-sees and these days it’s hard to get any go-sees at all, which makes it difficult for me living up north and not being able to make it for last-minute castings. I think shoots are far easier now with digital images instead of film when you didn’t quite know if they had the shot.

What did you discover about yourself through modeling?

I discovered how shy I was in the early days. I remember it being quite daunting having to meet new people on every shoot. It was like starting a brand new job every day but I soon got used to that.

What advice would you give to your younger self in hindsight?

My advice would be to try to enjoy every minute of it. It might be stressful, but it could all be over in a few years.

What are you up to these days?

These days I live near Newcastle in my home town with close family and friends around me. I’ve had a few exciting shoots recently and I’m very much enjoying it.

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Jason Fedele On Those Gucci Ads & The Evolution of Fashion

Jason Fedele was part of the group of American models that dominated the runways in the nineties along with Mike Campbell, Scott Barnhill and Jason Shaw. He has fronted campaigns for Versace, Gucci, Lanvin  and Tommy Hilfiger in addition to appearing in numerous fashion bibles. Speaking from his home in Florida, Jason reflected on that magical moment in fashion.

Tell us about how you were discovered.

What’s funny is I did a shoot with Stephen Sprouse for the then unopened Club USA. It was a huge image that greeted patrons as they entered the club. But that didn’t kick-start any discovery. What did, happened a bit later and was straight out of a movie. I was walking down 20th Street in New York City, my hometown, and was discovered by renowned agent Rick Ferrari and Ingrid McAuliffe. As they walked past one of them shouted, “Hey, you look like one of our top models!” which is surprising because my hair, at the time, was long and down to my ass. I was in a heavy metal band at the time. For them to see that through all the mane is obviously what made them experts in their field. They were referring to Mike Campbell, with whom I share very similar looks. My reaction was of typical New York cynicism, “Oh yeah, I don’t feel like a top model” as i pulled out my empty pockets. I had just become unemployed and by divine intervention, the universe brought us together. I’m eternally grateful to them for the opportunity of a lifetime. Rick and I are still friends to this day.

Jason Fedele by Justin Teodoro

You were part of the group of American models that dominated the runways in the nineties along with Mike Campbell, Scott Barnhill and Jason Shaw. In hindsight what are your reflections on that time?

It was a magical moment that I’m certain we are all appreciative of. It was the last great generation of models both male and female. The camaraderie was strong as we all got along having spent a lot of time together throughout castings, shows, campaigns and editorials in all the major markets; New York, Paris, London and of course Milan. Most of us have remained friends since and Mike Campbell and myself are still best friends. Our running joke over the years has been “different mother, different father, same dog” with regard to our similarity. In fact, when Mike had his son, he had two black labs, Rio and Zoe. At that time, Zoe was too rambunctious for a newborn, naturally, she came and lived with me. So the joke became reality. Life works in magical ways. I’ve been extremely fortunate, thanks to modeling, to have traveled the world, meet amazing people and work with immensely talented artists. I’m filled with gratitude to the many people who provided invaluable wisdom particularly Calvin Klein, Tom Ford and Bethann Hardison for whom I have great respect.

What would you say was the pivotal moment that changed the direction of your career?

I was fortunate that my career took off pretty fast. All of it is due to Calvin Klein who gave me my first big break. After a brief period of testing, he chose me to be the face of Calvin Klein for a 12 page spread in Vanity Fair. From the inside cover on, it was the pivotal campaign that jump started the fast and wild ride that afforded me so many fantastic jobs with Gucci, Versace, Hilfiger, etc. We had a close relationship and I understood his aesthetic. I was able to put his vision to the lens easily. My age had something to do with it I believe. I was a late bloomer in the world of fashion getting my break in the industry late at the age of 25. I had a little more real world experience than most, especially being a New Yorker. I understood the progressive nature of what was cool a bit more than the average Midwestern kid. That really helped me transcend into the Supermodel realm quickly. Tom Ford knew that as well which is why he made me his muse for so long during those amazing Gucci years. Tom and I developed an almost telepathic way of communicating. When you click with someone it’s easy to communicate in ways that allows the art to flow in its most raw, natural state.

You were a part of the pre-internet era. How do you think all of that compares to now in terms of social media and coaching?

The advent of technology, specifically social media, has radically changed the landscape of fashion and modeling as a whole. What was once a coveted, guarded process of discovery, grooming and managing of new talent for agents has flipped. No longer is there an exclusivity to models. Almost everyone has an Instagram account and if a prospect doesn’t have a ton of followers they aren’t considered. Instagram has become the litmus test for scalability and sellability. Kids today can brand and create their own cottage industry as brand ambassadors and cultivate their own businesses. Not to mention, the industry is predominantly celebrity driven. It definitely has marginalized the industry and has done away with the intimacy of creating individuality. Most insiders I’ve talked to agree, the business is not what it used to be. But isn’t that the story of technology? It supplants and replaces old ways of doing things with better (hopefully) and more efficient ways. On the other hand, it has reduced costs for agencies across the board. No longer are Polaroids or comp cards as necessary as they once were and the need for talent scouts is an antiquated job.

How did you deal with the pressures and scrutiny of the industry. Was it difficult for you?

It was probably more difficult for the industry than for me. I was a pain in the ass. Young, brash and fueled by ego, although I don’t carry regret, I do feel bad for the way I behaved in some situations and not taking my duties and responsibilities seriously enough. Since I was a bit older than the average kid, there wasn’t a lot of pressure or scrutiny that had an effect on me. Sure there was plenty of rejection, competition and the rigors of maintaining the “look” but for the most part, it was a lot of fun. I don’t think kids today will ever have the same experience as we did since most fashion houses are filled with corporatists and not artistic visionaries like Gianni or Calvin. There is so much history that these greats carried on and infused into their work. I think the pressures are different, albeit relative. I just didn’t feel them, it was not difficult getting paid huge sums of money to stand if front of a camera or walk a runway for 60 seconds.

Jason Fedele by Justin Teodoro

What did you discover about yourself through modeling?

I discovered that I had a real, deep love for fashion. As a creative person, I loved the creative process, wearing the clothes and embodying what they represented. Watching the seamstresses ply their skill, designers scratch and replace months of work in an instant. Portray a story, a thought, an idea that was born in someones head and realized through you the model. It was very rewarding, gratifying and personal. Also, I have an androgynous side that was able to flourish in an overly sexualized industry. One of my favorite campaigns was for Gucci. We shot it in Palm Springs with legendary photographer, Mario Testino. Seated against a wall, I was wearing purple sparkle pants and, knowingly, I had my hands placed on the backs of my thighs with an erotic tone of suggestive sexual availability. I knew it would illicit desire and elevate the campaign to meet its expectations. Sex! It was always a joy to express myself in ways that were controversial, outrageous, anything that made the observer stop and remark.

What are you up to these days?

These days I enjoy quiet domestication on the beautiful beaches of the Gulf Coast of Florida. Music has always been a strong part of my life prior to modeling and continues to be. Like another dream life, I’ve been blessed to have been a professional musician for nearly 25 years. I write, produce and perform TV spots (jingles), record and tour with famous artists, most recently with the alt-rock band Seether. Occasionally I’ll get a call for a modeling gig that I’m always happy to do. I love fashion, the industry and the people I worked with and more importantly became friends with. It will always be a part of my soul, a love affair that will always have a place in my heart.