Liisa Winkler On Modeling for Gucci And Her Career

Canadian stunner Liisa Winkler was the star of three consecutive Gucci campaigns during fashion’s love affair with Brazilian models. In addition to starting in campaigns for Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Valentino and Longchamp, Liisa has graced the cover of Vogue, Numero, Elle and countless others. Dividing her time between modeling and motherhood, I caught up with Liisa to talk about the heady days of her career and to find out what she’s doing now.

Tell us about how you got started in the industry.

I was scouted at a local mall and my best friend convinced me to do some pictures with her.  I started in Australia, which was a beautiful place to start, then tried Paris where I lived in a youth hostel and ate macaroni every night with four-dollar wine from a plastic bottle.  New York didn’t work all that well either but just as I was contemplating a career switch, I was booked by Tom Ford for an exclusive Gucci campaign.  I owe him my career. All the doors that were previously shut began to open.

You studied ballet before entering modeling. What parallels can you draw between the two and how did your background inform the way you modeled?

The two careers are very different. With ballet you can improve with hard work and dedication, but modelling is mostly about physical appearance and not something you can get better at. My ballet training was a real asset at the beginning of my career.  I was often referred to as “the ballerina” and mostly ended up doing movement jobs.  I remember wishing for a simple portrait style shoot for a long time but later realized that it’s much more creative to be moving. I have always found it very rewarding and exciting to be involved in creating something artistic and beautiful both in dance and in fashion.

How did you remain grounded during the height of your career?

My family and friends kept me grounded and being raised in a small town made me value a simpler life . My dance training taught me that in order to succeed at anything you had to work very hard.  I guess I felt that being a model was not enough and I was always searching for something else to work hard at.  When you are busy trying to work hard at things, you are more likely to keep your feet on the ground.

How has the industry changed over the course of your career?

Social media has really changed things.  Nothing can be forgotten or erased from digital memory. I remember jobs that I did near the beginning of my career that I cannot find anywhere. It’s kind of nice because some things are best left in the past. I would hate to see behind the scenes footage of jobs where I felt less than comfortable.  Girls now have to live with every bad decision or backstage half-naked photo ever taken of them.  We used to shoot Polaroids and film. Digital really makes things faster and more accurate, but you lose some of the flow and spontaneity that came with using film. People are sometimes so obsessed with looking at the screen to see how the shot looks, that they lose the momentum and creativity that comes when the focus is only on set.

During the rise of the Brazilian models, Models.com refered to you as one of the most underrated models in the business. How do you feel about that sentiment?

At that time, being Brazilian almost guaranteed you an “in” with clients. Drinking champagne backstage was crucial to fitting in. My agent was always hounding me to attend fashion parties, that I never went to, and we often joked that I needed to stage a drug overdose in order to create a buzz. Perhaps I was a little too grounded?  Anyhow it served me right I guess.

How do you feel about social media and the branding of models?

I think it kind of makes sense.  I like that models now have personalities that are more public and they can speak out about causes and things that they feel passionate about.  It creates a better role model for young girls and also gives the model more power to manage and direct her career.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

I have prosopagnosia- an inability to recognize faces. I sometimes don’t recognize people who I know quite well if they have changed their hair or are wearing a hat.

How has motherhood informed the way you approach modeling?

Having children has balanced my life in a really good way.  They are my everything and modeling jobs are like the icing on the cake.  Having kids has really put things into perspective and allowed me to have fun with modeling in a way that I was not able to before.  I don’t take myself so seriously anymore and am not afraid to take risks and ask questions. I love what I do and that allows me to have fun.

What have you learned about yourself through modeling?

That life is more fun when you just go with things and not take yourself too seriously.  Taking risks is pretty important and stepping out of your box can be scary but is totally worth it.

What are you doing these days?

I feel incredibly lucky to still be working as a model.  I also work as an ambassador with World Animal Protection, with my main focus on farm animals.  We live half in the city, half in the country and try to grow all our own vegetables. I am really interested in medicinal herbs and will be working on my diploma in herbalism this year.  Mostly I spend time with my five and eight-year olds, cooking them things that are often not so tasty, sometimes really awesome, but always totally healthy.

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Introducing Dorian Reeves

Canadian native Dorian Reeves may just be in his early twenties but he already has a cover of style bible Italian Vogue to his name. In addition to racking up a slew of editorials in covetable magazines, Dorian has walked the runway for Versace, Missoni and Jeremy Scott. I caught up with him to find out about his most memorable moment and how he feels about social media.

Tell us about how you got started as a model.

Dress up games were a favorite of mine since I was a toddler. Now my favorite game has turned into a career. I auditioned at Mode Models—a Canadian agency—it took them a while to call me back but they finally did.

What do you hope to get out of modeling?

I want to experience everything. I want to grow, flourish and become myself. I am opening the doors to the career I’ve always dreamed of, a full-time actor. Making many friends and traveling as much as possible is a delight.

What has been the most memorable moment of your career thus far?

Working with Steven Meisel, one of my favorite photographers, for the cover of Italian Vogue alongside supermodel Raquel Zimmerman is one of my most memorable moments.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

How incredibly curious and happy I am all the time.

If you weren’t modeling what would you be doing?

I would be biking throughout Europe, studying nutrition and most likely helping my mom garden.

What are your goals and aspirations for the future?

I’d like to race on my bike in the 200 meter sprint next summer in Quebec City. I also dream of living in Paris for at least a month.

US Vogue featured a host of models on their September cover touting their heavy social media presence. How integral do you feel social media is to a model’s career nowadays?

I am delighted you asked. I absolutely loved the cover! Social media, without a doubt, is taking strides in a model’s career – whether they like it or not.

Conor Clinch: The Rising Star On Reality TV& Rankin

At just 18-years-old, Conor Clinch is an emerging talent and one to watch.  Conor has built an extensive portfolio of clients including Topman, Hunger magazine and Vogue.com in addition to being mentored by iconic photographer Rankin on Sky 1’s The One’s To Watch. I caught up with Conor to talk about his influences and the inspiration behind his exhibit Fresh, an exploration of lad culture.

Where did your interest in photography begin?

I grew interested in photography at the age of 14. I bought my first camera online before I knew how to use it. I began experimenting and learned from my mistakes.

What challenges have you faced as a photographer being so young?

The fashion circle in Dublin is quite tight-knit and a lot of people say it’s very difficult to break into. I know quite a few people who began farther afield and left Ireland to pursue a career in fashion. I think that Dublin is a great starting ground as a young photographer, however like anywhere I found it very difficult to break into it as a teenager. A crucial part about starting young is keeping your head on your shoulders and taking every bit of criticism in your stride. You need to prove yourself so it’s important to be mature and professional but don’t be afraid to try new things.

What influences and inspires you?

At the moment I’m very inspired by the north side of Dublin. There’s a unique culture here that often goes unnoticed so recently I’ve been working on incorporating it into some personal projects. I look to the works of Alasdair Mclellan, Walter Pfeiffer and Boo George for inspiration.

How would you describe your aesthetic as a photographer?

I’d like to think of my work as quite honest and raw. I’m starting to take things down a notch with my personal work but still challenge myself on a technical level.

Rankin said about you,“Rarely does a very talented young photographer stop me in my tracks. Conor Clinch is one of those rarities.” What does this sort of recognition mean to you?

It was such an honor to hear those words from an iconic photographer like Rankin, it keeps you really determined.

How has appearing on The Ones To Watch on Sky 1 changed things for you?

After The Ones To Watch I came back to Dublin to sit my final year exams. Since, I’ve been working full-time in Dublin which is amazing! I’m planning to exhibit Fresh in Dublin this September and then making the move to London at the end of the month. I’m looking forward to opening new chapters abroad and start working on some new ideas.

Tell us about the inspiration behind Fresh.

Fresh is based around the concept of how lads perceive fashion. The idea derived from lad culture here in Dublin and how they take pride in what they wear. Whether it’s the huaraches craze or the latest barber cut, lads like to look good.

What can we expect to see from you in the future?

Lots of exciting new projects! I’m looking forward to making a start on some new ideas and challenging myself in new areas of photography and film.

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How Toby Sandeman Went From The Track to The Runway

Toby Sandeman is a former UK Athletics national champion turned model. He won two gold medals at the European Athletics U23 Championships and has modelled for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and worked with Naomi Campbell. I caught up with Toby to talk about his career and plans for the future.

What parallels can you draw between modeling and competitive athletics?

The biggest parallel would be the need to always be ready while at the same time being patient. In the modeling world three weeks may pass and you haven’t booked one gig so naturally binge eating pizza and partying every night seems like a good idea. Suddenly you get a call, “Toby, amazing news. Tomorrow you’re shooting with Naomi Campbell for Vogue…naked”.  All you can manage is a fake yay with a mouth full of pizza. Luckily, I’ve always stayed on top of my game – or at least haven’t been caught out yet.

I understand you were reluctant to model initially. Why did you have a change of heart?

In the summer of 2005 I saw two of the people I hung around with get 19 years in prison. Another friend was murdered and I was betrayed by two friends. I needed a change in my life –  a big change. Modeling was a 180 degree turn from the life I had been living, so I took it.

What challenges have you faced as a model?

I’m a man who likes to put in hard work and contribute to my own success.  The challenge modeling sets is that the outcome isn’t always in your hands. You’re born with a certain look and it’s either in fashion or not. There isn’t much you can do except not giving in to binge eating pizza.

What plans do you have for the future?

I just finished the production of my second film, Conversations of Ed-Dick-Shawn, which I also wrote. It is a 1940’s styled film noir piece about addiction. It explores what goes on in the mind of an addict that can draw a man like Phillip Seymour Hoffman back into addiction after 23 years of being clean. We will enter it at Sundance, Tribeca and the Cannes Film Festival which is very exciting.

What does success mean to you?

Professionally success for me is fine-tuning my acting craft to the calibre and standard I have set myself. Personally, success is reuniting my family that is currently spread over the globe.

What have some of the highlights of your career been?

Working with artists like Bruce Weber, Greg Lotus and Patrick Demarchelier. There have also been fabulous locations and some great brands. Working with an artist who is so passionate about their work always takes the top prize for me.

If you weren’t modeling what would you be doing?

Acting, as that is where my passion currently lies.

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Scott Barnhill – American Beauty

Scott Barnhill was part of the group of American models that dominated the runways in the nineties along with Mike Campbell, Jason Fedele and Jason Shaw. He has fronted campaigns for Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Valentino and Gucci in addition to appearing on the cover of Italian Vogue. I called Scott to find out what he’s up to these days and to reflect on his 20 years in the business.

Let’s talk about how you were discovered.

I was 17 working in construction and living in Florida. I went to Pleasure Island for my birthday where my brother got me in with a couple of friends. I was scouted by Cindy Cooper who gave me her number and asked me to call her.

You’re originally from Chicago, correct?

Yeah. One day after I got off work I went home and turned on VH1 and there was a fashion award show. I caught it just when Tyson Beckford was winning Model of the Year. I thought, that doesn’t look that hard, I’ll give it a try. I sent Cindy some basic 35mm photos and she set up a test shoot. I went down to Miami to shoot then I drove back to where I lived and they made contact sheets. Cindy set up appointments for me to go back down.

I went to Page Parkes Model Agency with that contact sheet and met Rob who was on their men’s board. He took me on and then I moved down to Miami. I was still doing construction work and I found a part-time job working in a stockroom. Nothing really happened for me on the modeling side. I did do a couple of editorials for teen magazines. Nothing financially came out of it so after six or seven months I decided to try to get my old job back.

My position was filled so I was just looking for a job. I found one working at a gas station pumping gas at a full-service station. After a few months of doing that I got a call to come down to Miami for a casting for Diesel. I didn’t know much about it and that’s when I met Ellen Von Unwerth. Two days later I got a call saying that I had booked the job. They were going to pay me for my driving time, plus my day rate so I said sure.

Before we started shooting Ellen asked me if I had any other surfer friends. I did and showed her a picture of my buddy. She asked me to go drive back up and get him so I went. I picked up my buddy and did the shoot. It was the first time I was in my underwear on the beach.

Would you say that was the pivotal moment that changed the direction of your career?

Oh yeah. Two weeks later I was in New York. My photo had been sent to all the photo reps. Steven Meisel picked up on me and that was the end.

It’s a theme among models that once Steven gives his seal of approval their careers take off.

Yeah, it went from that to shooting Versace. I went back to Miami to do catalogues for a while. I worked with a lot of German sports catalogues. I would work 12-15 days with them at a time and then it was back to Steven. I went back to Miami and went to a casting at the Raleigh Hotel. It was early and I was in the lobby trying to figure out where to go. I met this guy in the lobby and he wanted to know if I would shoot with him. I didn’t know him so he told me to go to my agents and tell them that Mario Testino wanted to shoot me. My agency called him and that opened up a whole other thing. From there it went to more photographers and non-stop for a few years.

You won the VH1 Model of the Year award. From watching Tyson win to you winning must have been surreal.

Yeah, it was.

What was that like winning the award?

I was never in the public eye before. Models now have training. I had no guidance from a PR stand point. When I won it I didn’t know what my voice would sound like. I was on stage at Madison Square Garden and nobody told me that there would be a five second delay in my voice. It was very off putting.

You were a part of the pre-internet era. You won this award, you were in a high-profile relationship. How do think all of that compares to now in terms of social media and coaching? Did you feel that you had more privacy.

Well it wasn’t just privacy. Even now when I walk down the streets in New York people still recognize me. What I needed was guidance. Now we have Project Runway and other reality shows. The whole profile is completely different. It’s been bogged down creatively. It’s two different businesses now. It feels a lot more contrived. It’s really about selling now as opposed to a creative market.

Do you feel that the industry is more contrived now?

It’s all about money management. I think now it’s like here’s the budget, we need a look book. We don’t need someone to steam the clothes we can retouch the photos. One person has to now do so much. There was a time when I was on set that all of that was done. The picture was taken and it was taken a  couple of times. Exactly what was on set was what was shown with maybe a little bit of color correction.  The only thing that was really done was the cropping. Now everything is Photoshop and Illustrator. Anybody with a digital camera has the opportunity to become somebody great if they have the right connections.

One of the concentrations at Soul Artist Management is to bring back the male supermodel. How do you feel about that? Is it something that is achievable?

Yeah, I think so. The thing is now it could easily be achieved especially with all the marketing outlets that are available but you also have to have substance to back all of that up. You really can’t create a household name based on gimmicks.

How do you feel about shows like The Face and Project Runway? Do you think that they give an accurate portrayal of the industry?

It can only go so far from that venue. If Steven Meisel or another great photographer is going to shoot the winner from America’s Next Top Model it’s not going to do anything for the photographers to shoot them. It’s not going to help sales of the cover of Italian Vogue or American Vogue or anything like that. I don’t think that a winner of a show is going to change the industry.

What would be your biggest take away from your 20 years in the industry.

Follow your path. Don’t take anything for granted. Stay and follow the endeavors you believe in, not just in the modeling field but life in general. Everyone is so young, they don’t know what they want in life. My life changed when I started modeling. The whole world literally opened up. At 20 I wanted to do music and be famous but it’s not going to happen unless you really want it and are willing to work really hard at it.  We make it look easy but there was a road to get there.

How did you deal with the pressures and scrutiny of the industry. Was it difficult for you?

I just went with it. I was easy. I remember being at Pier 59 shooting a campaign. I had my skateboard and we were in a huge studio and I just started skating because there was so much smooth concrete. I just lost myself. There was no pressure for me.

At one point I got a phone call from my agent that heard I was being difficult on a job. I was in Paris staying in a hotel and I had just been in three or four different countries in one week. I was in Paris, Jamaica, Italy, Germany and then back to Paris and I was tired. It made me think, are you serious? The agent was in Miami the whole time just doing his daily routine and I was out here busting my ass traveling around being happy-go-lucky and pretending everything is great. I broke down that night. My nerves were shot. I had nobody there with me, nobody to call, nobody to depend on. At that point everything was emotional.

I had my ups and downs following that. I have nothing bad to say about my 20 years in the industry. Just mad respect for the opportunities.  I’m so grateful to have worked with such great creatives that allowed me to feel I was being creative. I was a part of their process. That felt good.

What are you doing now? What are your plans?

I play music and I also have a custom handmade bow tie line I’ll be launching soon. On a day-to-day I custom build and I fabricate. Right now I’m standing in a coffee-house that I built from the ground up for a client of mine. They just got the lease for the space next door so what we’re going to do is convert the place into a brunch, coffee-house and wine bar. The last event job I did was for Absolute Vodka. I built them a tunnel in the shape of their bottle. Before that I did an office build-out for a casting director in New York. We custom-built 13 desks and a conference table and their whole kitchen area. I’m trying to get away from the building which is why I’m launching the bow ties. I’ve had them for two years and now I’m ready to take them into small spaces and shops. I want to play my music and take the modeling jobs as they come. I just did a Haider Ackermann presentation in Paris.

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